Monday, 21 January 2019 08:10

Housebreaking Your Puppy

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I've give you some basic idea on how to housebreak your puppy in this article (see the training part), this time however, I'll talk about it deeper than before.

The Natural Process after Feeding Time

Is it important? Yes it is! Here you'll learn why on earth you'll need a safe confinement called crate/kennel for the training.


Dog's used to be wild animal. Back then, they have to catch something before they can enjoy a meal. As a "hunter", dog may have some unfortunate days where she can't find anything to eat. This process creates a unique self preservation mechanism to store some food they had in their body. And when she finds another food, she'll naturally dump this storage and recharge it with fresher food. This is the reason why a dog often defecate after eat something.

Some dog will sleep right after meal then wake up to defecate then continue their sleep, is this normal? Yes it is normal, it's because the processing and storing the food reserve require quite a lot of energy.

Before she defecates, she'll try to find the "rest room", she'll smell around to find where the ammonia is. She use ammonia as an indicator because she love to dump the feces where other animal and themselves ever gone before.

Fortunately, dogs didn't enjoy the ammonia smell, this make them always try to dump it away from their sleeping area. This is where the crate takes a big part in housebreaking training cycle. But before you can teach the housebreaking, you have make sure that she already house trained, to find how to house train/ crate train your puppy, please refer to this post.

How to Housebreak your Puppy


Set up a routine

This is a step where you should establish a schedule to be as close as possible with your puppy. This will create some behavioral rhythm that works just like biological clock. Start with maintaining a feeding time; you should feed the puppy three times a day. And after meal is where you should watch her closely. During the feeding time, you should give a time limit. Time limit will be useful to teach her an efficient eating habit. Just remove all the food after fifteen or twenty minutes. This will prevent her from having small eat habit (but often). This will greatly reduce the training repetition, imagine if your puppy eat and drink ten times a day, then you should train her ten times a day! Would be better if it just three times a day isn't it?

Set a Fixed Cue Word

You'll need to set a fixed "cue word" to order your puppy. First the cue word to tell her to go outside, and second is the cue word to tell her to excrete. If you don't have an idea about what word you can use, use some simple words like outside, go out, or to the pad! To tell her to defecate, you can use these words: poo-poo, hurry up, or go pee.

Start the Training

Now you've set the schedule and set some fixed cue. It's time to start the training. The training should begin once she get 11 weeks old, because this is the time where bladder muscle start to grow and she start to have some control over their defecating instinct.

Start by feeding her in the crate, after the time limit over, remove all food and water from the crate and place it on a safe place where she can't reach it.
If she didn’t sleep after the meal, then you should watch her closely. If she fell asleep, then you should wait her to wake.
Wait for any visible clue that she needs to excrete, once you find it give the "outside" cue word.
Of course, she didn't know what you want at this time, so gently pick her or use a short leash to take her outside, and then praise the puppy to tell her "this is the outside".
Here you'll have to give another cue word, say go pee. If she execrate outside praise her. But most likely she didn't understand it yet. So repeat the cue but no more than three times and wait.
Wait for her to defecate. If you wait outside more than five or ten minutes then probably she just doesn’t need it yet.
Take her in, and wait for another ten minutes or until she shows another sign that she need the rest room.
Repeat the process until she excretes outside.
The training session will end until she excretes outside.
If you want her to eliminate inside the house, then you can use "to the pad" cue, then bring her to the pad (place where you want her to eliminate) and do the rest of the training above.


Depending on the dog, the training can last as fast as seven days or as long as two weeks. If you start the training with older dogs, then it'll take much more time than two weeks.

What to do if She Eliminating Inside?

Be calm, I know how upsetting this situation is. If you gone mad and show it to your puppy because she just spoil your carpet, she'll just try to find another hidden place or try to avoid you when she defecate. So just put her on the crate and lock it for a moment.

After she safely locked, clean the accident spot with a paper or tissue, then rub your desire "rest room" spot with small amount of the feces, then clean it with normal soap to prevent you smell the odor but allow the dog to smell it. And clean it then use some odor removal spray to prevent your puppy to consider it as a rest room.

Choosing the Food during the Training

You should avoid any "cheapo" food at this time. The reason is simple, dog digestion isn't very effective. On their natural life, they'll dump away about 40% of the food as poop. With a cheap food which contained with "filler" they'll excrete even more. But with a high quality and highly digestible food they'll only throw about 35% of the food. The law is simple more defecating frequencies = more training. So avoid any cheap food this time.

Read 83 times Last modified on Monday, 21 January 2019 08:31

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